The answer to the question posed in the previous installment - how to get the bonnet to clear the air intake - was simple and rather low-tech: Take off and cut down the pipe between the intake and the throttle body. It worked - with about 10mm taken off the top of the pipe and some cut-outs to make it sit lower on the throttle body we can now see daylight over the top of the intake when the bonnet's on:
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| Intake pipe as supplied |
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| Shortened intake pipe |
We then moved on to the throttle cable linkage - one of the "come back to" jobs we'd been putting off because it wasn't obvious how to do it. A photo from Mark at Westfield made it clear that it, in fact,
was obvious once we'd found another "I wonder what that's for?" part in the box of nuts and bolts:
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| Throttle cable attached - obvious once you see it in place! |
Next on the list was to finish checking the panel alignment prior to fastening the main tub on and cutting the hole for the exhaust. Everything, including the nose cone, fitted perfectly after a bit more trimming of the scuttle........ except for the trailing edge of the bonnet on the offside sitting slightly too high and wide. Whilst it seems like a small problem, we suspect we might need to go "back to basics" to sort it out. One to leave for another day, although we did take a picture during the process:
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| Bodywork trial fit 2. Wheelarches rested in place for effect! |
With that issue parked, we started thinking about the engine wiring, the first part of which was how to route the wires from the ECU to the engine. We'll be taking advice from Westfield, but the "cleanest" route seems to be through one of the holes on the gearbox top panel, so in preparation for this we enlarged the gear lever hole so that the gaiter fits (and 1st/3rd/5th gears are selectable!). We then re-mounted the ECU so that the wires exit in the right direction, making space for the relays in the process:
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| ECU and relays mounted on hinged plate above passenger footwell |
Dark now, and getting cold, so called it a day.
